Efficiency

I like efficiency, I get a strange pleasure from it. I try to find it everywhere, when I cook I like to plan my time way to much, so whilst I am doing certain tasks others are doing there own thing, with the hope (more like expressed certainty) that all will be finished at the same time. Meaning speed & efficiency, then I'll eat with the cutlery used to cook & nothing else. Another example is when Im running my Bia-t-ches or dealing my crack, I like to plan my route around town (normally a circle). This allows me to not be zigzagging across town using up all my gas n' shit. Apart form this one hoe; Shazale, always all up in my grill and jumping on the dog and bone (phone) screaming & hollering about this and that. Screws my efficiency when I have to zoom on over in my whip to bust some caps.

I digress. Sorry.

So I like to bring my efficiency to Climbing, obviously flashing a climb is a nice thing in its own right, but to me theres more. I like the efficiency that it represents, energy, skin & time efficient. All great things. It means you have more of everything to get more done that day/trip.

In terms of flashing the trip started very well & good progress was made around the cave, getting the easier (this is a relative term in this place) routes done. Now things have stepped up a bit with red-pointing being the norm. There is however still efficiency to be found, relatively important on routes. Apart from the obviousness of finding the easiest way from A-B….

I really enjoy the challenge of trying to dial in a sequence quickly & then progressing through to the red-point stage. 

On my first red-point project in the cave this didn't go quite to plan. Hueco boulder head was engaged upon seeing seeing some holds with a rad sequence that I new I could do right at the end of the crux. I could. However a whole 2 red-points were wasted trying what I was reliably informed by 3 people (one of them Gaz Parry who seems to have solid beta on every route in the cave)was the hardest sequence they had ever seen some one adopt on that climb. Finally agreeing that my totally RAD sequence might not be the most effect, I worked on the conventional sequence. It went & it went easier, dam! I climbed the sequence again & again in different overlapping sections until the sun dropped behind the distant tree's, taking the caves burnt orange edifice and replacing it with an altogether darker icier facard. It was time to go.

Upon the moro I returned, I warmed, I had sugary treats, I climbed from the bottom to the top without falling off. Success. Can't say when it went it felt easy but at least the process was reasonably efficient, especially after the new sequence.

Here are some photo's of me working the route (Pigui Nocturno) curtesy of the aforementioned Gaz Parry

Sexy Beast

It's as easy as 1

2

3

Since completing this project I haven't really settled into any other climbs as moving on is looming over at the moment (when Marco sends too) however I did have a little play on Rollito Sharma, and when I am a LOT stronger will come back for more, over the next few days I shall try to sink my teeth into something.

Onwards and upwards,

Grant.