Grant Bateman on Tour: The Morgue

The Morgue is the affectionate new name for my tent. This is due in part to the coffin like restrictions that are placed on ones movement, with the analogy being finished off nicely by the frost covered interior that greats me as I open my eyes. It's times like that I'm extremely happy with my purchase of a rather expensive, extremely warm Rab (keep the sponsors happy) sleeping bag. It means that while every surface (inside & out) of my tent is frosted over, including the aforementioned sleeping bag & often my woolly hat on my head, I'm snuggery warm in my cocoon of downy goodness.

The mornings probably are the worst part of my day thought, as no matter how warm it is in the bag, at some point you have to get out, fight through the wall of frosted up zips, find your shoes & run into the distance to find the van, sleeping bag over shoulder (not forgetting to re-zip up the blessed morgue). NB. I bring the sleeping bag with me to let it dry out in the van during the day.

So the climbing… me, the van, the moorage, Jen & Marco are living in Santa Linya car park. I am reliably informed by a french aquantense, probably called Jean-Pier, that what I am doing is called 'Camping Savarge' in french (I like this term).

Santa Linya is frigging amazing! The crag is just one big cave, but what a cave!!!!

Found this on Google

I guess a list is the most efficient way to share my recent rock climbs

09/02/12

Bouludo 7b+ Flash

Airline 7b+ 2nd Go

Meneo Canario 7b Flash

10/02/12

Devora Hombres 7c+ Flash

Arqueologico 7c Flash

11/02/12

Trio Ternura 8a Flash

12/02/12

Kanotero 7c 2nd Go

El Ejecutor 7c+ 2nd Go

Today the 13th we rest, wash clothes & ourselves, been very productive on all fronts.

The climbing has been going surprisingly well, I feared that my complete lack of route training would hold me back. However it has seemed that my Hueco boulder strength & me really wanting to get to the top is dragging me up things. Crazily. For me the three stand out moments (this may be as they are the most recent ones) have been:

Trio Ternura 8a I was told it started right off the deck with the 1st move putting you right into a hard & long V6/7 boulder problem, to a marginal rest, another 5 marginal moves to a massive rest. From here you finnish up a 7c that I had flashed the day before (having been widely pumped out of my mind trying to throw my hands in holds I new I could climb it but wouldn't say I had a confirmed sequence). Hearing all this I new it was a good route to go for, hoping my boulder strength would drag me through the boulder problem start & after the rest I could just cling on through the 7c (big holds with bigger moves). On the flash I arrived at the rest pumped out of my tiny mind. I tried to throw in hand jams, arm jams & only fell a little short of trying a head jam. Having recovered all that I could I set off up the upper section. Brilliant climbing, throwing between good holds getting more and more pumped, as the chains came into sight I actually thought I might do it and with a final updraft of warm spanish wind I was there. Truly mental. As a little icing on the cake this was my first ever 8a Flash (2nd ever 8a) & came 8 days after my first ever 8A. Happy.

Kanotero 7c A normal santa linya climb leaves you pumped and ready to fall into the waiting arms of the rope, when you reach a wicked 1 move boulder throw of about a meter from a crimp rail to a flat jug. Missed It first time no mistake second time.

El Ejecutor 7c+ Different from all the others as its on the 'flatter' side of the cave, meaning much smaller holds & no feet. Amazing moves throwing from side pulls to two finger pockets, resting on 'sign of the vulcan' holds & actually using a mono in anger. truly different & truly amazing.

To end here are some photos of me on Trio Ternura