Thursday 26 January 2012

8-9-10

After a rest day that consisted of eating & cinema going...
IHOP Is a must!

Cinema's the world over smell the same
...I woke up feeling highly rested and ready to mix it up on north mountain.
On arrival we trekked straight over to Baby Face, one of the best problems in the park & on Will's uncompleted list. We dropped the pads/kit & left Will to warm up as we went in search of a new Jason Kehl line that is ment to be amazing.
To cut a long story short, we didn't find it & by the time we came back Will was on top of the boulder, a screaming & a yelling, a screaming & yelling. He'd just sashed Baby Face! An amazing effort! Having never tried the top two moves (which are pretty airy) he just busted them out with no spotters and a few pads. Will to me is now the Alex Holland of the trip.

After this early bit of excitement Jon showed us several ways down to Adjust Your Attitude, until he found the correct one. However Jon's imfamous wack Beta stopped there; as despite having been a head boy at Dr Challoner's grammar school for gays. He provided me with solid Beta that lead me to a super close flash go & then a respectable 2nd go accent. 8 (Will spent this time finding very arty shots of me climbing~ see video)

To leave the area we had to walk past fern roof. I've always had a little fizz in a certain private area when walking past this bloc & seeing as the guys needed to wait for there blocs to go into the shade, I put my pad down & my boots on aiming to throw some shapes on this great bloc. A good flash go right up to the crux move left me brimming with confidence, this confidence diminished some what when I spent quite a while being shut down by the crux move. It evaporated even more when having done the crux on the oner I made mistakes ranging from silly dabs to completely forgetting my sequence. After saying 'two more go's & i'll definitely leave it' & having a small paddy, I did it third go. (climbings not a sport for rules) Apart from having great movement through a cool roof, one of the best things about this problem is the cool top out up quite a long slab! 9 (totally unexpected to get this in a session)

Now came the main event. We had waited for the Loaded Bloc to go into the shade so Jon could throw some shapes on Loaded Direct. I fancied throwing myself against Loaded With Power too. Being as I felt pretty beat up from my mornings shenanigans I sat back and watched. This didn't last long. Me and Jon were taking it in turns to try are bloc's. Will was jumping on an exploring the early moves. Our guide from the other day (kate) turned up. As did others, & with them more pads. Group Psyche was high. Me, Kate & Jon were all making progress through are moves, surely someone would have to break the deadlock soon.
Kate was first, floating up Loaded, I was next much less gracefully battling up Loaded 10. Jon brought the train home with a great send of a probably amazing line in a probably amazing location!

Here's a Vid of my day





Here is a Vid of Jon's wicked accent



This a link to Jon's Blog to hear his thoughts.



As if that wasn't enough, Will finished the day by making some great links on Free Willy (apt)

Great day all round can't wait for more.

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